The Dallas-Obsessed Brewery’s Hall Of State-Honoring Hefeweizen Misses Some Of The Style’s Traditional Touchstones, But Hits With Big Personality Elsewhere.
Welcome to On Tap! Each week in this recurring feature, we’ll take an in-depth look at one of the many beers available in the crowded North Texas brew scene. The goal here is to look at these area beers without our local goggles on, and to wonder aloud, “Is this beer good or do I just like it because it’s local?” Let’s find out! Cheers!
This week, I sipped on Great Hall Hefe from Pegasus City Brewery.
Fast Facts about Great Hall Hefe
Style: German Weiss
ABV: 5.4 percent
International Bitterness Units (IBUs): 22
Color: Gold
Proper Glassware: Weiss vase
Availability: Draught and cans
Overview
Pegasus City Brewery is named for Dallas and the famous neon Pegasus that used to fly over the Magnolia Building downtown.
Knowing that, it follows that each of the brewery’s creations is named for different local landmark, person or event. Examples of this include its Sixth Floor Porter, obviously named for the famous location Lee Harvey Oswald allegedly used to assassinate President Kennedy, and it Don Law Brown Ale, named for the English record producer Don Law who recorded sessions with Robert Johnson in Dallas in 1938. Boom! Just like that, beer has become educational!
Great Hall Hefe in particular is named for the famous art deco-style Hall of State that serves as the culmination of the esplanade that functions as the formal entry to Fair Park.
Background On German Weiss Beer
German Weiss beer — or the artist formerly know as hefeweizen but renamed in the most recent BJCP Style Guidelines — is an old and traditional Bavarian wheat-based beer. Since wheat was not included in the original Reinheitsgebot of 1516, its use in brewing was reserved for the Bavarian royal family — meaning only the government could produce any kind of Weiss beer until 1872 when this practice ended. For a primer on the Weiss beer style, see our review of Franconia Wheat beer from the On Tap archives.
Appearance
Great Hall pours big, filling my Weiss vase-style glass with equal parts gold, cloudy liquid and fluffy, white bubbles. The cloudiness is just right, signaling a true unfiltered wheat beer without getting murky. Left in the glass long enough, it does settle out and leave Great Hall mostly clear. Even a conservative pour produces a gloriously full head on this beer, although that aspect lacks the staying power expected of Weiss beer — so enjoy it fast.
Aroma
Pegasus City says this beer was designed to trend toward the traditional banana aromas produced by the yeast during fermentation, and I sort of think they hit that mark. For me, this beer is pretty balanced between banana and clove, but considering that most Weiss beers I’ve had are clove-heavy, the banana needed to come up some in this profile for me. There’s also an underlying graininess from the wheat and hints of vanilla. All in all, though, it’s an aromatically approachable Weiss beer.
Flavor
Great Hall has all requisite bits and pieces to be recognizable for what it is. There’s the aforementioned banana and clove, plus bits of vanilla and grainy breadiness. It’s all there. But it lacks the full-on assault of flavor that I expect from the style. It kind of reminds me of a photo that has been perfectly exposed, but then had the vibrancy turned down in processing.
Mouthfeel
This one has a medium-light body, and the big bubbly finish of a high-carbonation beer. The can says there are 22 IBUs in here, but I honestly can’t find the bitterness under the carbonation and malt. It also lacks some of the silky smoothness I expect in a wheat beer.
Overall Impression
Great Hall has everything it needs to be a great Weiss beer, but it fails to deliver in the intensity department to be a truly high-scoring beer. It has an etherealness to it that just isn’t real hefeweizen-like for me — at least not in the textbook sense. This is a subtle and nuanced brew, where a traditional German hefe will often punch you in the mouth.
But here’s the thing: I like it this way. Pegasus City has created what I want in a Weiss beer by removing the aggressiveness that has always chased me away after just one. Confession: I’m actually drinking my third can of this as I write these words. It is everything a Weiss beer should be in terms of aroma and flavor, while exhibiting the confidence to not scream for my attention. And I dig that.
The one thing I really miss, however, is the creamy mouthfeel that I get from standard German versions of this style. Perhaps Pegasus City dialed back the amount of wheat in its recipe? I don’t know for sure, but I do know I want more of the texture.
Regardless, Great Hall Hefe is worthy addition to your warm-weather beer lineup, and it should satisfy the hefe void in your life while still appealing to everyone.
In its own way, it is every bit as much a work of art as the classic Fair Park building for which it is named.
Score
On a scale of 1 to 10, I give Great Hall Hefe from Pegasus City Brewery a 7.
All photos by Bob Floyd.
Previous On Tap Reviews:
• Revolver’s Sangre y Miel: 10.
• Lakewood Brewing’s Salted Caramel Temptress: 10.
• Peticolas’ Royal Scandal: 10.
• Community’s Mosaic IPA: 10.
• Deep Ellum Brewing Company’s Freak Flag: 10.
• Peticolas’ Velvet Hammer: 10.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Boysenbarrel: 10.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Legion: 10.
• Community’s Legion: 10.
• Martin House River Horse: 9.75.
• BrainDead’s Fill in the Blancs: 9.5.
• Oak Highlands’ Freaky Deaky: 9.5.
• 903 Brewers’ Birthday Sasquatch: 9.5.
• TUPPS Brewery’s Full Grown Scallywag: 9.5.
• On Rotation’s Flocculation of Seagulls: 9.5.
• Braindead Brewing’s P-Wing: 9.5.
• Lakewood Brewing Company’s Coconut Temptress: 9.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Barrel Aged Four Swords: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Saint Dymphna: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Lost Epic: 9.5.
• Community’s Ascension Porter: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Temptress: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Goatman: 9.5.
• Community’s Public Ale: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Thrilla in Brazilla: 9.5.
• Collective Brewing Project’s SMaSHY: 9.25
• BrainDead Brewing’s Galactic Federation of Might: 9.25
• On Rotation’s Lingonberry Sahti: 9.25.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s The Morrigan: 9.25.
• On Rotation’s Jalapeno Saison: 9.
• Woodcreek’s Bourbon Barrel Bock: 9.
• Lakewood’s Double Chocolate Temptress: 9.
• Braindead Brewing Company’s Dr. Dreipricot: 9.
• Manhattan Project’s Black Matter: 9.
• Lakewood’s Wild Manimal: 9.
• Manhattan Project Beer Company’s Necessary Evil: 9.
• Revolver’s Blood & Honey: 9.
• Funky Picnic’s Funny Accent: 9.
• Martin House’s Imperial Texan: 9.
• Division Brewing’s Smokin’ Jack-o’s: 9.
• Community Beer Co.’s Medical Grade Haze: 9.
• Wild Acre’s Mondlift: 9.
• Community’s Trinity Tripel: 9.
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• Four Corners’ Block Party Porter: 9.
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• Small Brewpub’s Black Pepper Pils: 8.5.
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• Community Beer Company’s Wit ‘N Wild: 8.5.
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• Rahr’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Raspberry Temptress: 8.5.
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• Martin House’s Possum Kingdom Pilsner: 8.25.
• Community Beer Company’s Brett’s Get It On: 8.25.
• Bankhead Brewing Company’s Aoogah!: 8.25.
• Lakewood’s Peach Artsy Tarsty: 8.25.
• Peticolas Brewing Company’s Clandestine: 8.
• Lakewood Brewing Grand Allowance: 8.
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• Texas Ale Project’s Smash Experiment: 8.
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• Community’s Texas Helles: 8.
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• Franconia’s Silver Star Bock: 8
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• Hop & Sting Brewing Company’s Galactic Haze: 8.
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• Texas Ale Project’s Payne Pils: 8.
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• Collective Brewing’s Urban Funk House: 8.
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• Community’s Barrel-Aged Inspiration : 8.
• Cedar Creek’s Fisticuffs: 8.
• Lakewood’s Punkel: 8.
• Four Corners’ El Chingon IPA: 8.
• New Main Brewing’s Thundersnow: 8.
• Martin House’s Day Break: 8.
• Deep Ellum’s GOURDzilla: 8.
• Peticolas’ The Duke (Aged 12 Months): 8.
• Deep Ellum’s Neato Bandito: 8.
• Steam Theory’s Hops Against Humanity: 8
• Revolver’s Bock: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Sasquatch: 8.
• Peticolas’ Wintervention: 8.
• Division Brewing’s Distant Cousin: 8.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Brunch Money: 8.
• Martin House’s Salsa Verde: 8.
• Cedar Creek’s Spinning Mule Robust Porter: 8.
• Lakewood’s Holiday Bonus: 8.
• Lakewood’s Hop Trapp: 8.
• Pegasus City Brewery’s The Woofus: 7.75
• Four Corners Brewing Company Homie Brew: 7.75.
• Community Beer Company’s Snickerdoodle: 7.75.
• Pegasus City Brewery’s High Point: 7.75.
• Cedar Creek’s Grapefruit Haze: 7.75.
• Martin House Brewing’s Big Hoppa: 7.75.
• TUPPS Full Grown Man: 7.75.
• 3 Nations American Wit: 7.75.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Dapper Apple: 7.75.
• 903 Brewers’ Kilt Switch: 7.5.
• Chimera Dirty Dog: 7.5.
• 3 Nations Brewing Company’s Imperial Milk Stout: 7.5.
• Legal Draft’s Accused Amber Lager: 7.5.
• Grapevine’s Reserve Tart Cherry Berliner Weisse: 7.5.
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• Noble Rey Brewing Company’s Frooty Tang: 7.5.
• Martin House Brewing’s Pretzel Stout: 7.5.
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• Lakewood’s Hopochondria: 7.5.
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• Shannon Brewing’s Irish Cream Ale: 7.
• Oak Highlands’ Guava Good: 7.
• TUPPS Brewery’ Northbound 75: 7.
• Rahr & Sons’ Iron Joe: 7.
• BrainDead’s I Like Harvey IPA: 7.
• Martin House’s Turtle Power: 7.
• Three Nations Brewing Co.’s Texas Gold Chili Lime: 7.
• Collective’s Petite Golden Sour: 7.
• Shannon’s Chocolate Stout: 7.
• Trinity Forest Brewing Company’s Blonde Ale: 7.
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• Community’s Razzy Raspberry Witbier: 7.
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• Bearded Eel’s Purple Unicorn: 7.
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• Shannon Brewing Company’s Irish Red: 7.
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• Deep Ellum IPA: 7.
• Cedar Creek’s The Lawn Ranger: 7.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s Cellarman’s Reserve IPA (Amarillo).: 7.
• Lakewood’s Till & Toil: 7.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Town Squared: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ The Chosen One: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ Sugar On Top: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway XPA: 7.
• Armadillo Ale Work’s Quakertown Stout: 7.
• Revolver’s High Brass: 7.
• Community’s Pale Ale: 7.
• Oak Highlands’ Chump Change: 7.
• Shanning Brewing Co.’s Mór IPA: 7.
• Martin House’s River House: 7.
• Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Sir William’s Brown Ale: 7.
• Community’s Funnel Cake Ale: 7.
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• Whistle Post’s Shoofly Coconut Lime Ale: 6.75.
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• Deep Ellum’s Double Brown Stout : 6.5.
• Cedar Creek’s Maui Wowie: 6.25.
• On Rotation’s Mexican Barleywine: 6.25.
• Thirsty Bro Brewing Co.’s Sweet Cherry Blonde: 6
• On Rotation’s Darjeeling Tea Session Ale: 6.
• Wild Acre’s Tarantula Hawk: 6.
• Martin House’s Kafkaesque: 6.
• TUPPS’ Cotton Mill Gold: 6.
• Brutal Beerworks’ Mother Heffer: 6.
• Four Bullets’ All In IPA: 6.
• Rabbit Hole’s Tweedleyum: 6.
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• Rahr & Sons’ Angry Santa: 6.
• Cedar Creek’s Elliott’s Phoned Home Pale Ale: 6
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• Cobra Brewing Company’s Dawn of the Dank: 6
• Deep Ellum Pale Ale: 6
• Lakewood’s Troll Toll: 5.5.
• Martin House’s Hell Below: 5.5.
• Lakewood’s La Dame Du Lac: 5.5.
• Martin House’s Best Maid Sour Pickle Beer: 5.
• TUPPS Brewery’s Imperial Pastry Sour Ale: 5.
• Woodcreek’s Lakeside Cerveza: 5.
• Legal Draft Beer Company’s Smash & Grab IPA: 5.
• Martin House Cuvee Pumpkin Latte: 5.
• Intrinsic’s Crunktoberfest: 5.
• Martin House’s Mind On My Money: 5.
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• Deep Ellum’s Numb Comfort: 5.
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• Miller Lite: 1.