On Tap: HopFusion Ale Works’ Hairpin.

HopFusion Ale Works’ Hairpin Is The National Award-Winning Rye IPA That Packs A Bitter Punch Pale Ale Lovers Are Sure To Enjoy.

Welcome to On Tap! Each week in this recurring feature, we’ll take an in-depth look at one of the many beers now available in the suddenly crowded North Texas brew scene. The goal here is to look at these area beers without our local goggles on and to wonder aloud, “Is this beer good or do I just like it because it’s local?” Should be a fun experiment, no? Cheers to that!

This week, we sipped on HopFusion Ale Works’ Hairpin.

Fast Facts on HopFusion Ale Works Hairpin.

Style: Rye Beer / Roggenbier.
ABV: 6.3 percent.
International Bitterness Units (IBUs): 68.
Color: Amber.
Availability: Cans and kegs.

Overview.
HopFusion Ale Works, like many-a-storied brewery, started with two fools chasing their dreams. And holy shit, did their dreams do come true! I must say, I don’t know a whole lot about this brewery. So I’m not going to sit here and regale you on the history of how these two homebrewers got drunk, planted a stake in the ground and decided to pour their life savings into a brewing operation and blah blah blah. What I do know is that HopFusion won three medals at the 2017 U.S. Open Beer Championship. The three winning beers, Feisty Blonde and Hairpin and Fur Slipper, were entries in what I can imagine would be tough categories with tons of similar entries. So to win in their respective categories is a big deal. One other important item to note is that Hopfusion just recently started canning. So that means you don’t have to seek out this beer on draft; you should be able to buy HopFusion’s beer at more and more places.

Background on Roggenbier.
The Roggenbier has its roots in Bavaria and is categorized as a historical beer. This style typically contains at least 50 percent rye malt in its grain bill. So if you’re not in to that classic peppery rye flavor, this style might not be your favorite. But if you enjoy a dunkel from time to time, then this beer might be your jam. The Roggenbier style is like a dunkel but with rye rather than wheat. As a brewing ingredient, rye can be a pain in the ass due to its huskless nature. Rolled wheat and oats can also gum up a perfectly good mashing situation, and brewers often use rice hulls or some other flavorless structure-holder-upper to keep the mash from gumming up. Traditional Roggenbier should showcase characteristics from a Weizen yeast such as clove and/or fruity esters in the aroma. Color is usually in the copper range. Flavor should showcase the rye malt and the finish can be dry with a bit of a creamy mouthfeel. Hairpin takes a few of these traits, but it’s barely hanging on to the fringes of this style. As its can states, this beer is more of a rye pale ale. But it’s good to know some history behind the traditional rye beer.

Appearance.
Hairpin pours a coppery-orange color in to my glass. I see a fair amount of foam present and it sticks around through the pour. The beer has a tiny amount of chill haze, but it clears up after a few minutes’ time in the glass. Overall, the appearance is on point for what a rye pale ale should look like.

Aroma.
There is a noticeable amount of rye malt present on the nose of this beer. So while it’s definitely there front-and-center, I wouldn’t say that the rye overpowers the nose. There’s also a substantial amount of hops on the nose, a bit more crisp and sharp than floral. I also get a tiny amount of grainy honey on the back-end of the aroma experience during the aftertaste.

Flavor.
The rye is here, but it’s not too much. I suspect that this beer doesn’t have near the amount of rye malt in it compared to how I had this beer playing out in my mind. There’s a small amount of sweetness and grainy, husk sort of thing from the grain – Vienna malt, maybe? — but it’s quickly overpowered by the intense bitterness going on here. The punch of bitterness lingers in the middle of my tongue long after the swallow. And then that classic spice from the rye malt hits me again. I’m normally not a fan of the rye pepper pop, but I am digging it on this beer.

Mouthfeel.
Hairpin finishes out crisp and dry. I suspect that the rye addition here adds something extra to help dry out the finish and provide a bit more thrust for the bitterness and pepper notes in the aftertaste.

Overall Impression.
I’m digging this beer even though I don’t usually seek out rye beers. But I feel that this one has just enough rye going on that I don’t tire of it. I think back to the phase were it seemed like black rye IPAs were gaining steam in the professional and homebrewer space, and I don’t miss that flavor profile very much. Luckily, this beer stays away from that misfit flavor combination (for me). I think that now that I’m through this review and a couple beers in, I’d almost call this beer a Rye IPA. It has a huge base of rye evident from the crisp, dry finish and the peppery pop in the aftertaste. And there’s a ton of hops in this beer that play nice with the intensity of the rye malt. I will buy this beer again, and I look forward to visiting HopFusion’s taproom soon.

Score. On a scale of 1 to 10, I’d give HopFusion Ale Works Hairpin a 8.

Previous On Tap Reviews:
• Revolver’s Sangre y Miel: 10.
• Peticolas’ Royal Scandal: 10.
• Community’s Mosaic IPA: 10.
• Peticolas’ Velvet Hammer: 10.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Boysenbarrel: 10.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Legion: 10.
• Community’s Legion: 10.
• Martin House River Horse: 9.75.
• BrainDead’s Fill in the Blancs: 9.5.
• Oak Highlands’ Freaky Deaky: 9.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Barrel Aged Four Swords: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Saint Dymphna: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Lost Epic: 9.5.
• Community’s Ascension Porter: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Temptress: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Goatman: 9.5.
• Community’s Public Ale: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Thrilla in Brazilla: 9.5.
• Collective Brewing Project’s SMaSHY: 9.2
• On Rotation’s Lingonberry Sahti: 9.25.
• On Rotation’s Jalapeno Saison: 9.
• Woodcreek’s Bourbon Barrel Bock: 9.
• Lakewood’s Wild Manimal: 9.
• Revolver’s Blood & Honey: 9.
• Martin House’s Imperial Texan: 9.
• Community’s Trinity Tripel: 9.
• Peticolas’ Irish Goodbye: 9.
• Four Corners’ Block Party Porter: 9.
• Bankhead Brewing Co.’s Giggle Water: 9.
• Cedar Creek’s Belgian Dubbel: 9.
• Cedar Creek’s Poblano Paradise: 8.75.
• Small Brewpub’s Black Pepper Pils: 8.5.
• Peticolas’ Ghost Of Alfred Brown: 8.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Easy Peasy IPA: 8.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Oak Cliff Coffee Ale: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Rock Ryder: 8.5.
• Rahr’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Raspberry Temptress: 8.5.
• Peticolas’ Prime Minister: 8.25.
• Lakewood’s Peach Artsy Tarsty: 8.25.
• Lakewood Brewing Grand Allowance: 8.
• HopFusion Ale Works’ Hairpin: 8
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Greenbelt Farmhouse Ale: 8.
• Community’s Texas Helles: 8.
• On Rotation’s Moar Blackberry: 8.
• Lakewood’s Thread Spinner: 8.
• Bishop Cider Co.’s Sour Cherry: 8.
• Texas Ale Project 50 Ft. Jackrabbit: 8.
• Pegasus City Brewing’ Nine Volt: 8.
• Texas Ale Project’s Payne Pils: 8.
• Noble Rey’s Bridesmaid’s Tears: 8.
• Collective Brewing’s Urban Funk House: 8.
• Pegasus City Brewery’s Cannoneer: 8.
• Lakewood’s On Call: 8.
• Oak Highlands’ Golden Mustache: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Crackin’ Up: 8.
• Deep Ellum’s Play Date: 8.
• Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s 11th Anniversary Russian Imperial Stout: 8.
• Bitter Sisters’ Belgian Tripel: 8.
• Noble Rey’s SteamPunk: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Citra On Top: 8.
• Bitter Sisters’ Hissy Fit: 8.
• BrainDead’s Gritz: 8.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Inspiration : 8.
• Cedar Creek’s Fisticuffs: 8.
• Lakewood’s Punkel: 8.
• Four Corners’ El Chingon IPA: 8.
• Martin House’s Day Break: 8.
• Deep Ellum’s GOURDzilla: 8.
• Peticolas’ The Duke (Aged 12 Months): 8.
• Deep Ellum’s Pale Ale: 8.
• Revolver’s Bock: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Sasquatch: 8.
• Peticolas’ Wintervention: 8.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Brunch Money: 8.
• Martin House’s Salsa Verde: 8.
• Cedar Creek’s Spinning Mule Robust Porter: 8.
• Lakewood’s Holiday Bonus: 8.
• Lakewood’s Hop Trapp: 8.
• Four Corners Brewing Company Homie Brew: 7.75.
• Cedar Creek’s Grapefruit Haze: 7.75.
• Martin House Brewing’s Big Hoppa: 7.75.
• TUPPS Full Grown Man: 7.75.
• 3 Nations American Wit: 7.75.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Dapper Apple: 7.75.
• Chimera Dirty Dog: 7.5.
• Legal Draft’s Accused Amber Lager: 7.5.
• Grapevine’s Reserve Tart Cherry Berliner Weisse: 7.5.
• Martin House’s Stars Above: 7.5.
• Grapevine’s Prickly Pear Wheat Ale: 7.5.
• Texas Ale Project’s Good To Go: 7.5.
• Bitter Sisters’ Knock Out: 7.5.
• Four Corners’ Notorious O.A.T.: 7.5.
• Noble Rey Golden Rey With Raspberries and Ginger: 7.5.
• On Rotation Saved By The Belma: 7.5.
• True Vine’s Unicorn’s Revenge: 7.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Hop Seeker: 7.5.
• Four Corners’ El Super Bee: 7.5.
• Lakewood’s Hopochondria: 7.5.
• Three Nations GPA: 7.5.
• Martin House’s Rubberneck Red: 7.5.
• Lakewood’s Antigoon’s Revenge: 7.5.
• Community’s Texas Pils: 7.5.
• Lakewood’s Zomer Pils: 7.5.
• Cedar Creek’s Dankosaurus: 7.5.
• Cedar Creek Brewery Clover Kicker: 7.25.
• Noble Rey Sex In A Canoe: 7.25.
• Oak Highlands Brewery’s Oktoberfest.: 7.25.
• Deep Ellum Rye Pils: 7.
• 3 Nations Mango SMASH IPA: 7.
• Legal Draft Chief Justice Stout: 7.
• Manhattan Project’s Plutonium-239: 7.
• Backcountry’s Texas IPA: 7.
• Backcountry’s Double IPA: 7.
• Wild Acre Brewing Company’s Billy Jenkins: 7.
• Rahr’s Visionary: 7.
• Shannon Brewing’s Irish Cream Ale: 7.
• Oak Highlands’ Guava Good: 7.
• TUPPS Brewery’ Northbound 75: 7.
• Rahr & Sons’ Iron Joe: 7.
• BrainDead’s I Like Harvey IPA: 7.
• Martin House’s Turtle Power: 7.
• Collective’s Petite Golden Sour: 7.
• Shannon’s Chocolate Stout: 7.
• BrainDead’s Red Ale: 7.
• Community’s Razzy Raspberry Witbier: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway Blonde Ale: 7.
• Bearded Eel’s Purple Unicorn: 7.
• Noble Rey’s Off The Leash: 7.
• Shannon Brewing Company’s Irish Red: 7.
• Texas Ale Project’s Somethin’ Shady: 7.
• Deep Ellum IPA: 7.
• Cedar Creek’s The Lawn Ranger: 7.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s Cellarman’s Reserve IPA (Amarillo).: 7.
• Lakewood’s Till & Toil: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ The Chosen One: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ Sugar On Top: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway XPA: 7.
• Armadillo Ale Work’s Quakertown Stout: 7.
• Revolver’s High Brass: 7.
• Community’s Pale Ale: 7.
• Oak Highlands’ Chump Change: 7.
• Martin House’s River House: 7.
• Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Sir William’s Brown Ale: 7.
• Community’s Funnel Cake Ale: 7.
• Audacity’s Boss Raptor IPA: 7.
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• Martin House’s Queen of the Mist (Prickly Pear): 6.75.
• Three Nations Texas Xmas Hazelnut Ale: 6.5.
• Martin House’s The Juice: 6.5.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Mom Azacca: 6.5.
• Four Corners’ La Lechuza: 6.5.
• Revolver’s Ironhead IPA: 6.5.
• 903 Brewers’ Trot Line: 6.5.
• Four Corners’ Celebración: 6.5.
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• Peticolas’ The Duke: 6.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Double Brown Stout : 6.5.
• Cedar Creek’s Maui Wowie: 6.25.
• On Rotation’s Mexican Barleywine: 6.25.
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• Martin House’s Kafkaesque: 6.
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• Martin House Cuvee Pumpkin Latte: 5.
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• Deep Ellum’s Numb Comfort: 5.
• TUPPS’ Day Off: 4.75.
• Four Bullets’ Black Jack Brown: 4.5.
• Audacity’s Checkered Past: 4.
• Four Corners Heart O’ Texas: 4.
• Audacity’s Sunset Boulevard: 4.
• Shannon Brewing Company’s IPA: 4.
• Grapevine’s Monarch: 4.
• Good Neighbor Brews Slim Sweetness: 3.
• Twin Peaks’ Dirty Blonde: 3.
• Franconia Wheat: 3.
• 903 Brewers’ Mythical Creatures: 2.5.
• Miller Lite: 1.