On Tap.

Lakewood Brewing Co.’s All Call Is Way Dialed In.

Welcome to On Tap! Each week in this recurring feature, we’ll take an in-depth look at one of the many beers now available in the suddenly crowded North Texas brew scene. The goal here is to look at these area beers without our local goggles on and to wonder aloud, “Is this beer good or do I just like it because it’s local?” Should be a fun experiment, no? Cheers to that!

This week, we sipped on Lakewood Brewing Co.’s All Call.

Fast facts on Lakewood Brewing Co.’s All Call.
Style: Kolsch.
ABV: 5 percent.
International Bitterness Units (IBUs): 25.
Color: Pale straw.
Availability: Draft and cans, year-round.

Overview.
It’s been a while since Lakewood Brewing Co. released an always-around sort of beer. But, just this month, Lakewood went and added All Call to its regular lineup of beers. And, quite frankly, I’m psyched about that. Don’t get me wrong: I do like Lakewood’s rotating beer series and seasonal offerings — and you can’t forget Lakewood’s Temptress and her several sister variations on the already-kick-ass theme — but it’s cool to see the brewery returning to the everyday sort of drinking space.

At first, it may appear a little strange that Lakewood has crammed yet another low-ABV beer into to its already-crowded lineup with this offering, what with Rock Ryder, Zomer Pils and Lakewood Lager all already hanging out at the lower end of its ABV roster. But, hey, people like new shit! And so do I!

Oh, and one more interesting thing to note is that Lakewood will donate a portion of proceeds from the sale of All Call to the Guns & Hoses Foundation of North Texas. So maybe there’s some weight here after all.

Let’s see.

Background on Kolsch.
For a primer on the Kolsch style — including some interesting information on yeast type and its history — check out our review on Nine Band Brewing’s Cactus Cat. Don’t want to check out that review? Then let’s go over just a couple of key points here. First, the Kolsch style is a classic German style that lives in the lower ABV range, so you can enjoy it in multiples. The beer is should be brilliantly clear, too, especially if the beer is lagered for a little time before packaging. This is one of the most refreshing styles that you’ll find, and it is one of my personal favorite styles to brew at home. No, it’s not going to blow anybody’s hair back with wacky, intense flavors. But this style of beer is a huge crowd-pleaser because it is very approachable, near-sessionable and a damn pleasure to drink.

Appearance.
All Call pours exceptionally clear. I’m not going to fist-bump Lakewood on this; I expect excellent clarity from a brewery of this ilk. The head on this beer hangs around for long enough for me to take a few quick shots with my camera, but it seems to dissipate shortly afterwards. That’s interesting; a traditional kolsch offering tends to have a supremely firm, rocky white head that sort of hangs sip-rings down the glass as you go.

Aroma.
I get a super clean and bright aroma on this beer. Nothing stands out hops-wise, which is good because hops are not the star of the All Call show. I sense just a tiny bit of hay and honey on the nose. Some of this aroma may come from the malts used in this beer. Maybe it’s pilsner malt? Overall, the aroma is very clean and crisp.

Flavor.
All Call tastes clean and refreshing. There’s a brightness, and a delicate hint of fruit on the tongue. Because this beer is a simple grain bill, low ABV and not very hoppy, there isn’t really anywhere to hide as far as off-flavors go. And thank goodness that this beer is super clean. This beer is so crisp that it almost tricks me in to thinking that this is a light lager. Well, it almost is! There’s that teeny hint of sulphury goodness that reminds me of the light lager style. But this beer is most likely brewed with a more traditional kolsch style ale yeast.

Mouthfeel.
I sound like a broken record here with the clean, crisp and bright thing. But that’s what this beer is. Its moderate level of carbonation is on point for the style. It finishes crisp and dry, also appropriate for the style. All Call is a beer that will not wear our your palate with its delicate body, so enjoy.

Overall Impression.
All Call is a good option for the upcoming warm-weather months. I appreciate that this beer – like some of Lakewood’s other beers – is canned. This makes it a great option for outdoor, pool and patio drinking. To be honest, I like drinking kolsch-style beers all-year round myself, but this beer is also a great to have on hand for guests who want a light, easy-drinking beer. Listen up, people: Be better than Miller Lite. While not exactly the same style (duh), this beer offers much more in the enjoyment and sensory game than your macro bro-drinker. In my random beer run with no specific style or target in mind, All Call will always catch my attention. It’s that good, yes.

Score.
On a scale of 1 to 10, I’ll give Lakewood Brewing Company’s All Call a 8.

What’s happening in the area brew scene?
• Saturday, April 23. Brewfest on Crockett at West 7th in Fort Worth.
• Saturday, April 30. One-Year Anniversary Party at Texas Ale Project.
• Sunday, May, 1. Bugs and Brews at Granada Theater Parking Lot.
• Sunday, May, 15. Brew Riot at Bishop Arts.
• Saturday, May, 21. North Texas Firkin Fest at Globe Life Park.
• Saturday, June 11. Untapped: Fort Worth at Panther Island Pavilion.

Previous On Tap Reviews:
• Peticolas’ Royal Scandal: 10.
• Community’s Mosaic IPA: 10.
• Peticolas’ Velvet Hammer: 10.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Legion: 10.
• Community’s Legion: 10.
• Deep Ellum’s Barrel Aged Four Swords: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Saint Dymphna: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Lost Epic: 9.5.
• Community’s Ascension Porter: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Temptress: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Goatman: 9.5.
• Community’s Public Ale: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Thrilla in Brazilla: 9.5.
• On Rotation’s Jalapeno Saison: 9.
• Woodcreek’s Bourbon Barrel Bock: 9.
• Lakewood’s Wild Manimal: 9.
• Revolver’s Blood & Honey: 9.
• Martin House’s Imperial Texan: 9.
• Community’s Trinity Tripel: 9.
• Peticolas’ Irish Goodbye: 9.
• Four Corners’ Block Party Porter: 9.
• Cedar Creek’s Belgian Dubbel: 9.
• Peticolas’ Ghost Of Alfred Brown: 8.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Easy Peasy IPA: 8.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Oak Cliff Coffee Ale: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Rock Ryder: 8.5.
• Rahr’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Raspberry Temptress: 8.5.
• Oak Highlands’ Golden Mustache: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Crackin’ Up: 8.
• Deep Ellum’s Play Date: 8.
• Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s 11th Anniversary Russian Imperial Stout: 8.
• Bitter Sisters’ Belgian Tripel: 8.
• Noble Rey’s SteamPunk: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Citra On Top: 8.
• Bitter Sisters’ Hissy Fit: 8.
• BrainDead’s Gritz: 8.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Inspiration : 8.
• Cedar Creek’s Fisticuffs: 8.
• Lakewood’s Punkel: 8.
• Four Corners’ El Chingon IPA: 8.
• Martin House’s Day Break: 8.
• Deep Ellum’s GOURDzilla: 8.
• Peticolas’ The Duke (Aged 12 Months): 8.
• Deep Ellum’s Pale Ale: 8.
• Revolver’s Bock: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Sasquatch: 8.
• Peticolas’ Wintervention: 8.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Brunch Money: 8.
• Martin House’s Salsa Verde: 8.
• Cedar Creek’s Spinning Mule Robust Porter: 8.
• Lakewood’s Holiday Bonus: 8.
• Lakewood’s Hop Trapp: 8.
• Bitter Sisters’ Knock Out: 7.5.
• Four Corners’ Notorious O.A.T.: 7.5.
• Noble Rey Golden Rey With Raspberries and Ginger: 7.5.
• On Rotation Saved By The Belma: 7.5.
• True Vine’s Unicorn’s Revenge: 7.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Hop Seeker: 7.5.
• Four Corners’ El Super Bee: 7.5.
• Lakewood’s Hopochondria: 7.5.
• Three Nations GPA: 7.5.
• Martin House’s Rubberneck Red: 7.5.
• Lakewood’s Antigoon’s Revenge: 7.5.
• Community’s Texas Pils: 7.5.
• Lakewood’s Zomer Pils: 7.5.
• Cedar Creek’s Dankosaurus: 7.5.
• Rahr & Sons’ Iron Joe: 7.
• BrainDead’s I Like Harvey IPA: 7.
• Martin House’s Turtle Power: 7.
• Collective’s Petite Golden Sour: 7.
• Shannon’s Chocolate Stout: 7.
• BrainDead’s Red Ale: 7.
• Community’s Razzy Raspberry Witbier: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway Blonde Ale: 7.
• Bearded Eel’s Purple Unicorn: 7.
• Noble Rey’s Off The Leash: 7.
• Shannon Brewing Company’s Irish Red: 7.
• Texas Ale Project’s Somethin’ Shady: 7.
• Deep Ellum IPA: 7.
• Cedar Creek’s The Lawn Ranger: 7.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s Cellarman’s Reserve IPA (Amarillo).: 7.
• Lakewood’s Till & Toil: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ The Chosen One: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ Sugar On Top: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway XPA: 7.
• Armadillo Ale Work’s Quakertown Stout: 7.
• Revolver’s High Brass: 7.
• Community’s Pale Ale: 7.
• Oak Highlands’ Chump Change: 7.
• Martin House’s River House: 7.
• Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Sir William’s Brown Ale: 7.
• Community’s Funnel Cake Ale: 7.
• Audacity’s Boss Raptor IPA: 7.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Mom Azacca: 6.5.
• Four Corners’ La Lechuza: 6.5.
• Revolver’s Ironhead IPA: 6.5.
• 903 Brewers’ Trot Line: 6.5.
• Peticolas’ Operation Collaboration: 6.5.
• Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Nightwatch: 6.5.
• Peticolas’ The Duke: 6.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Double Brown Stout : 6.5.
• Nine Bands’ Cactus Cat: 6.
• Martin House’s Kafkaesque: 6.
• Tupps’ Cotton Mill Gold: 6.
• Rabbit Hole’s Tweedleyum: 6.
• Rabbit Hole’s Off With Your Red: 6.
• Cedar Creek’s Elliott’s Phoned Home Pale Ale: 6
• Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Lakefire: 6
• Armadillo Ale Works’ WunderMelon: 6
• Deep Ellum Pale Ale: 6
• Lakewood’s La Dame Du Lac: 5.5.
• 903 Brewers’ The Land Of Milk And Honey: 5.
• Deep Ellum’s Numb Comfort: 5.
• Four Bullets’ Black Jack Brown: 4.5.
• Four Corners Heart O’ Texas: 4.
• Audacity’s Sunset Boulevard: 4.
• Shannon Brewing Company’s IPA: 4.
• Grapevine’s Monarch: 4.
• Twin Peaks’ Dirty Blonde: 3.
• Franconia Wheat: 3.
• Miller Lite: 1.