Nothing Beats A Cold Beer With Some Good BBQ, So We Head To Garland’s Intrinsic Smokehouse and Brewery To Try Its Czech Pilsner.
Welcome to On Tap! Each week in this recurring feature, we’ll take an in-depth look at one of the many beers available in the crowded North Texas brew scene. The goal here is to look at these area beers without our local goggles on, and to wonder aloud, “Is this beer good or do I just like it because it’s local?” Let’s find out! Cheers!
This week I sipped on Heeey Czech by Intrinsic Brewing Co.
Fast Facts about Heeey Czech
Style: Pilsner – Czech
ABV: 5.9%
International Bitterness Units (IBUs): NA
Color: Straw-Gold
Proper Glassware: Footed Pilsner or Pub Mug
Availability: Draught & Crowlers (at brewery)
Overview
After two years of mostly grabbing beer-to-go, I’m trying to get back out into the bigger beer world and spend some time knocking back a pint or two in taprooms with real people. Not going to lie, even though I’ve visited several already in 2022, it still feels a little awkward sometimes. Almost like starting over, ya know? This week, that starting over included dinner because I wanted BBQ with my beer, so off to Intrinsic Smokehouse and Brewery I went.
Intrinsic is a homey little place in the historic part of old town Garland. The small brewhouse shoehorned into one side by the front door is perfectly accented by the century old, exposed brick and urban decorations. It’s warm and inviting, and thanks to the smokehouse in back, it smells divine. Its one of my favorite kinds of breweries.
Now, to find a beer.
Background on Czech Pilsner
Czech Pilsner, or Czech Premium Pale Lager as it is called in the latest edition of the BJCP Style Guidelines, is the original, if lesser brewed, Pilsner style. It possesses both a complex maltiness and considerable hoppy bitterness, giving it an all-around balance. Unlike other Pilsner styles, its bitterness is soft and round in nature, never harsh, contributing to an easy drinkability that is a hallmark of the style.
Appearance
Heeey Czech is perfectly Czech in appearance, sporting a dark straw color, wonderful clarity, and a frothy if low bright white head. I say low head, but this was only after the bartender dumped a good bit of foam off during the pour. Head persistence was disappointing, possibly due to the pour itself rather than the beer, but it did leave a solid lacing on the inside of the glass.
Aroma
The nose on Heeey Czech is mild but lovely. It is rich with bread dough, fresh baked white bread, and floral notes, all subtle but easily distinguishable. When this style is done well, it is one of my favorite beers to smell and this one doesn’t disappoint.
Flavor
Heeey Czech is crisp and clean, and full of floral accented bread. The bitterness is not quite aggressive but there is an edginess to it that is very direct. The medium finish is balanced slightly to the bitter side, medium dry and sparklingly clean.
Mouthfeel
Heeey Czech is medium bodied with at least medium high carbonation. I say “at least” medium high because having watched a significant amount of foam poured off the top with both beers I ordered, I have to wonder if it was too highly carbonated and maybe that contributed to the edginess noted above.
Overall Impression
I really enjoyed Heeey Czech. It was fun in a real beer-flavored-beer traditional sense. Not too heavy but not a shrinking violet either, this is a solid beer that is comfortable just being present. It doesn’t need to be the star of the show.
I feel like it misses the mark for a Czech Pils though as the bitterness lacks the soft and round character that this style is known for. Honestly, the direct crispness it displays is much more in line with its German sibling for me. Please note, this isn’t bad and if Intrinsic had called this a German Pilsner, this would be a strength.
While the beer was enjoyable, I wasn’t as thrilled with the service I got. Oh, the beertender was very friendly, timely and got my order right but there is more to good service than that. When I went for my second beer, my glass got reused instead of replaced. Then during the pour, the beertender dunked the beer faucet in the beer already in my glass as they poured the foam off. It may not sound like much, but it is definitely a service issue and while there are places I can ignore this kind of lazy service, anyone working behind the bar in a brewery taproom should know better.
Maybe it was a one off. I’ve certainly never seen it at Intrinsic before (and I pay attention to this stuff) so I’m hoping someone was just having a bad night.
Even so, the beer itself was damn fine and thoroughly enjoyable with the BBQ, so I’ll be back around to give them another chance at a later date.
Score
On a scale of 1 to 10, I give Intrinsic Heeey Czech a 7.
All photos by Bob Floyd.
Previous On Tap Reviews:
• Revolver’s Sangre y Miel: 10.
• Lakewood Brewing’s Salted Caramel Temptress: 10.
• Peticolas’ Royal Scandal: 10.
• Community’s Mosaic IPA: 10.
• Deep Ellum Brewing Company’s Freak Flag: 10.
• Peticolas’ Velvet Hammer: 10.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Boysenbarrel: 10.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Legion: 10.
• Community’s Legion: 10.
• Martin House River Horse: 9.75.
• Four Bullets’ What Are the Odds: 9.5.
• BrainDead’s Fill in the Blancs: 9.5.
• Oak Highlands’ Freaky Deaky: 9.5.
• 903 Brewers’ Birthday Sasquatch: 9.5.
• TUPPS Brewery’s Full Grown Scallywag: 9.5.
• On Rotation’s Flocculation of Seagulls: 9.5.
• Braindead Brewing’s P-Wing: 9.5.
• Lakewood Brewing Company’s Coconut Temptress: 9.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Barrel Aged Four Swords: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Saint Dymphna: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Lost Epic: 9.5.
• Community’s Ascension Porter: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Temptress: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Goatman: 9.5.
• Community’s Public Ale: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Thrilla in Brazilla: 9.5.
• Collective Brewing Project’s SMaSHY: 9.25
• BrainDead Brewing’s Galactic Federation of Might: 9.25
• On Rotation’s Lingonberry Sahti: 9.25.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s The Morrigan: 9.25.
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• Rahr’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer: 8.5.
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