On Tap: Manhattan Project’s Black Matter.

The West Dallas Brewery Has An In-House Coffee Program Within Its Taproom, So It’s No Surprise Its Coffee Stout Hits All The Right Notes.

Welcome to On Tap! Each week in this recurring feature, we’ll take an in-depth look at one of the many beers available in the crowded North Texas brew scene. The goal here is to look at these area beers without our local goggles on, and to wonder aloud, “Is this beer good or do I just like it because it’s local?” Let’s find out! Cheers!

This week, I sipped on Black Matter from Manhattan Project Brewing Co.

Fast Facts On Black Matter

Style: Coffee stout
ABV: 8.6 percent
International Bitterness Units (IBUs): 25
Color: Black
Proper Glassware: Nonic pint, pub mug, snifter
Availability: Draught and cans

Overview

How have you gotten through the last year? Me, I’ve been fueled through the pandemic by coffee and beer — and I’m nearly as serious about the former as I obviously am the latter. I fresh-grind beans every morning to make a pot of java for my household, and it’s nearly always something medium- to full-bodied with lots of roast. Not much smells better at the start of the day.

With that as a back drop, it probably isn’t hard to imagine how excited I was when I first heard that West Dallas’ Manhattan Project Beer Company had released a coffee stout.

You see, its beer-naming controversies aside, Manhattan Project doesn’t just take beer seriously; is also serves coffee in the taproom and takes that game pretty seriously, too.

Background On Coffee Stouts

Technically, a coffee stout falls into the Herb, Spice or Vegetable (SHV) category. The general idea of an SHV is that the brewer adds an ingredient from the herb, spice or vegetable families to a well-defined base style — coconut in a porter or hazelnut in a brown ale are just couple of classic examples. The addition should be an accent, and either enhance or complement the base style. What it shouldn’t do is run over the base style to the point that the base is unrecognizable. In this case, the brewer added coffee to a traditionally roasty beer style in order to punch up the already present coffee-like characteristics of stouts.

Appearance

Black Matter is black. Like, seriously black. A lot of stouts have a bit of a translucent feel to them, but this one nearly feels like it’s eating the light around it. There’s also a visual weight to the pour that’s noticeable in how the beer-splash stains the sides of the glass with a toffee-colored fluid. Meanwhile, the head is a rich tan in color, and it consists of mostly fine bubbles that I wish had more staying power.

Aroma

The aroma is mostly coffee — like a big French roast — with hints of dark chocolate mixed in, as though someone served it with a Godiva-flavored creamer. There are also hints of vanilla teasing around the edges. All of it mixes together for a divine experience that will please anyone who loves a great cup of java.

Flavor

Right out of the fridge, this brew tastes like a rich, iced espresso served black and then balanced with a small shot of chocolate and malt sugar. As it warms up — and you should definitely let it warm up — the deep-roasted nature of this beer becomes more pronounced, and develops vanilla and mild cinnamon accents. There is a bitterness to it too, but that is driven by the coffee and roasted malts used, not by the hops. At times, the flavor combinations in Black Matter remind me of a certain cough syrup I had too much of as a kid, especially when it approaches room temperature where the alcohol burn gets a bit more pronounced.

Mouthfeel

Manhattan Project describes this beer as silky smooth — and they aren’t wrong. That smoothness is only interrupted by a sharp sting from the alcohol that hits right down the middle of my tongue. There is also a slight acidity from the coffee that causes the inside of my cheeks to pucker up after I swallow. This beer is full-bodied with a viscosity that leaves the feel of a thin coating on everything in my mouth. It has a long finish.

Pairing

Like all core products from MPBC, Black Matter comes with pairing suggestions right on the can. The brewery recommends trying it with a warm fire, a ribeye steak and ice cream — all of which I endorse, too. However, the coffee overtones in this have me thinking about a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs done over medium with hash browns and dark bread toast. Which works, I think. Turns out, the beer was originally brewed for a breakfast event!

Overall Impression

In short, Black Matter is exactly what it says on the tin.

As coffee stouts go, it’s hard to imagine a brewery doing a better job of balancing the original stout style with the addition of the coffee flavors than Manhattan Project pulled off here. This beer strikes all the right notes.

I find it’s a struggle for many breweries to not overdo the accent flavors when brewing an SHV — almost like they’re afraid that those of us drinking these beers will miss those elements if they doesn’t hit us on the head. But Manhattan Project has made it a habit to do these types of beer right, and I consider this style of beer a strength of the brewery’s.

If I have a complaint at all, it’s the higher alcohol content that leads to the memories of cough medicine at warmer temps. I think this beer could have been every bit what it is now with less alcohol, but that’s perhaps just me and my prejudice against the “bigger is better” mentality so prevalent in the craft beer world today.

Regardless, MPBC has another great beer on its hands with Black Matter — and one that has me considering eating breakfast at night a whole lot more.

Score

On a scale of 1 to 10, I give Manhattan Project’s Black Matter a 9.

All photos by Bob Floyd.

Previous On Tap Reviews:

• Revolver’s Sangre y Miel: 10.
• Lakewood Brewing’s Salted Caramel Temptress: 10.
• Peticolas’ Royal Scandal: 10.
• Community’s Mosaic IPA: 10.
• Deep Ellum Brewing Company’s Freak Flag: 10.
• Peticolas’ Velvet Hammer: 10.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Boysenbarrel: 10.
• Community’s Barrel-Aged Legion: 10.
• Community’s Legion: 10.
• Martin House River Horse: 9.75.
• BrainDead’s Fill in the Blancs: 9.5.
• Oak Highlands’ Freaky Deaky: 9.5.
• 903 Brewers’ Birthday Sasquatch: 9.5.
• TUPPS Brewery’s Full Grown Scallywag: 9.5.
• On Rotation’s Flocculation of Seagulls: 9.5.
• Braindead Brewing’s P-Wing: 9.5.
• Lakewood Brewing Company’s Coconut Temptress: 9.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Barrel Aged Four Swords: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Saint Dymphna: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Lost Epic: 9.5.
• Community’s Ascension Porter: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Temptress: 9.5.
• Lakewood’s Goatman: 9.5.
• Community’s Public Ale: 9.5.
• Peticolas’ Thrilla in Brazilla: 9.5.
• Collective Brewing Project’s SMaSHY: 9.25
• BrainDead Brewing’s Galactic Federation of Might: 9.25
• On Rotation’s Lingonberry Sahti: 9.25.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s The Morrigan: 9.25.
• On Rotation’s Jalapeno Saison: 9.
• Woodcreek’s Bourbon Barrel Bock: 9.
• Braindead Brewing Company’s Dr. Dreipricot: 9.
• Lakewood’s Wild Manimal: 9.
• Manhattan Project Beer Company’s Necessary Evil: 9.
• Revolver’s Blood & Honey: 9.
• Funky Picnic’s Funny Accent: 9.
• Martin House’s Imperial Texan: 9.
• Division Brewing’s Smokin’ Jack-o’s: 9.
• Wild Acre’s Mondlift: 9.
• Community’s Trinity Tripel: 9.
• Peticolas’ Irish Goodbye: 9.
• Four Corners’ Block Party Porter: 9.
• Bankhead Brewing Co.’s Giggle Water: 9.
• Cedar Creek’s Belgian Dubbel: 9.
• Manhattan Project’s Wise Monkeys: 9.
• Cedar Creek’s Poblano Paradise: 8.75.
• Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Oktoberfest: 8.75.
• Lakewood Brewing Company IPA: 8.75.
• Small Brewpub’s Black Pepper Pils: 8.5.
• Peticolas’ Ghost Of Alfred Brown: 8.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Easy Peasy IPA: 8.5.
• Community Beer Company’s Passiflora: 8.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Oak Cliff Coffee Ale: 8.5.
• Community Beer Company’s Wit ‘N Wild: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Rock Ryder: 8.5.
• Rahr’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer: 8.5.
• Lakewood’s Raspberry Temptress: 8.5.
• Peticolas’ Prime Minister: 8.25.
• Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Winter Warmer: 8.25.
• Noble Rey Brewing’s Barampus: 8.25.
• Martin House’s Possum Kingdom Pilsner: 8.25.
• Community Beer Company’s Brett’s Get It On: 8.25.
• Bankhead Brewing Company’s Aoogah!: 8.25.
• Lakewood’s Peach Artsy Tarsty: 8.25.
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• Lakewood Brewing Grand Allowance: 8.
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• Peticolas’ Golden Opportunity: 8
• Three Nations’ Devout (Mexican Chocolate): 8
• Collective Brewing Project’s Cup O’ Sumpin Raspberry Lemonade: 8.
• Texas Ale Project’s Smash Experiment: 8.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Greenbelt Farmhouse Ale: 8.
• Cedar Creek Brewery’s Gone A-Rye: 8.
• Community’s Texas Helles: 8.
• On Rotation’s Moar Blackberry: 8.
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• Peticolas Brewing Company’s Doctor’s Orders: 8.
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• Peticolas’ The Duke (Aged 12 Months): 8.
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• Steam Theory’s Hops Against Humanity: 8
• Revolver’s Bock: 8.
• 903 Brewers’ Sasquatch: 8.
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• Division Brewing’s Distant Cousin: 8.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Brunch Money: 8.
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• Four Corners Brewing Company Homie Brew: 7.75.
• Community Beer Company’s Snickerdoodle: 7.75.
• Pegasus City Brewery’s High Point: 7.75.
• Cedar Creek’s Grapefruit Haze: 7.75.
• Martin House Brewing’s Big Hoppa: 7.75.
• TUPPS Full Grown Man: 7.75.
• 3 Nations American Wit: 7.75.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Dapper Apple: 7.75.
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• Chimera Dirty Dog: 7.5.
• 3 Nations Brewing Company’s Imperial Milk Stout: 7.5.
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• Deep Ellum’s Hop Seeker: 7.5.
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• Lakewood’s Hopochondria: 7.5.
• Three Nations GPA: 7.5.
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• Legal Draft’s Black Letter Law: 7.
• Noble Rey Brewing Company’s Mother Night: 7.
• TUPPS Brewery’s Imperial Saison: 7.
• Manhattan Project’s Plutonium-239: 7.
• Panther Island Brewing’s Sweet Fang: 7.
• Backcountry’s Texas IPA: 7.
• Backcountry’s Double IPA: 7.
• Wild Acre Brewing Company’s Billy Jenkins: 7.
• Rahr’s Visionary: 7.
• Shannon Brewing’s Irish Cream Ale: 7.
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• Rahr & Sons’ Iron Joe: 7.
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• Martin House’s Turtle Power: 7.
• Three Nations Brewing Co.’s Texas Gold Chili Lime: 7.
• Collective’s Petite Golden Sour: 7.
• Shannon’s Chocolate Stout: 7.
• BrainDead’s Red Ale: 7.
• Community’s Razzy Raspberry Witbier: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway Blonde Ale: 7.
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• Noble Rey’s Off The Leash: 7.
• Shannon Brewing Company’s Irish Red: 7.
• Texas Ale Project’s Somethin’ Shady: 7.
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• Cedar Creek’s The Lawn Ranger: 7.
• Martin House Brewing Company’s Cellarman’s Reserve IPA (Amarillo).: 7.
• Lakewood’s Till & Toil: 7.
• Armadillo Ale Works’ Town Squared: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ The Chosen One: 7.
• 903 Brewers’ Sugar On Top: 7.
• Martin House’s Gateway XPA: 7.
• Armadillo Ale Work’s Quakertown Stout: 7.
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• Whistle Post’s Shoofly Coconut Lime Ale: 6.75.
• Community Brewing Company’s Silly Gose: 6.75
• HopFusion Ale Works’ Feisty Blonde: 6.75
• Martin House’s Queen of the Mist (Prickly Pear): 6.75.
• Armadillo Ale Works Land Yacht IPA: 6.5
• Three Nations Texas Xmas Hazelnut Ale: 6.5.
• Martin House’s The Juice: 6.5.
• Collective Brewing Project’s Mom Azacca: 6.5.
• Four Corners’ La Lechuza: 6.5.
• Revolver’s Ironhead IPA: 6.5.
• 903 Brewers’ Trot Line: 6.5.
• Four Corners’ Celebración: 6.5.
• Peticolas’ Operation Collaboration: 6.5.
• Rahr & Sons Brewing Company’s Pumpkin Ale: 6.5.
• Grapevine Craft Brewery’s Nightwatch: 6.5.
• Peticolas’ The Duke: 6.5.
• Deep Ellum’s Double Brown Stout : 6.5.
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• On Rotation’s Mexican Barleywine: 6.25.
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• On Rotation’s Darjeeling Tea Session Ale: 6.
• Wild Acre’s Tarantula Hawk: 6.
• Martin House’s Kafkaesque: 6.
• TUPPS’ Cotton Mill Gold: 6.
• Brutal Beerworks’ Mother Heffer: 6.
• Four Bullets’ All In IPA: 6.
• Rabbit Hole’s Tweedleyum: 6.
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• Rahr & Sons’ Angry Santa: 6.
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• Armadillo Ale Works’ WunderMelon: 6
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• Deep Ellum Pale Ale: 6
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• Martin House’s Hell Below: 5.5.
• Lakewood’s La Dame Du Lac: 5.5.
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• Miller Lite: 1.